THE HILLS TAGORE LOVED

Nobel Laureate Rabindra Nath Tagore’s first visit to the Himalayas started rather in a comical circumstance. When one thinks of Tagore the picture emerges of him with long hair and flowing beard. But when he was a school going child, his head was once tonsured for the traditional Bengali Upanayana (sacred) ceremony. He was quite embarrassed specially to face his British classmates who would have definitely made fun of him. But here the Himalayas came to his rescue. His father called him to go to the hills and he excitedly said yes. The journey started by train.

Later Tagore wrote a memory of the Himalayan journey ‘Himalaya Jatra’ (A trip to the Himalayas). The memoire mentions that while he and his small entourage were climbing the mountains the entire region was full of different kinds of seasonal crops which grew in layers on the mountain slopes and looked very beautiful. His eyes did not rest for the whole day; as he feared that he might miss noticing something. There was a place where one or two streams leapt down over the mossy black stones that resembled playful daughters of the sages sitting at the feet of old meditating ascetics. “I would covetously keep on thinking why they did not leave us there as it would be nice to stay at such a place,” he wrote.

Tagore’s resting place in the picturesque Bakrota Hills was one of the most beautiful and highest spots near Dalhousie. Though it was the month of summer, it was very cold and there was still snow. He went alone to the adjacent forest quite frequently along with his metal- headed stick. Tagore’s bedroom was right at the end of the house facing
 
Nobel Laureate Rabindra Nath Tagore’s first visit to the Hima- layas started rather in a comical circumstance. When one thinks of Tagore the picture emerges of him with long hair and flowing beard. But when he was a school going child, his head was once tonsured for the traditional Bengali Upan- ayana (sacred) ceremony. He was quite embarrassed specially to face his British classmates who would have definitely made fun of him. But here the Himalayas came to his rescue. His father called him to go to the hills and he excitedly said yes. The journey started by train. the great mountain ranges. Lying on bed at night he could see the faint light of the planets and the brightness of the snow on the mountain peaks through the windows.

Much later Tagore again came to the Himalayas, this time in the eastern part of Darjeeling for a longer period. He stayed in a small, idyllic, quaint bungalow at Mongpu village loftily situated near Darjeeling in the foothills of Himalayas. At a height of 3500 feet, it boasts of picturesque natural scenery, clear streams and a slice of history. The village used to be Tagore’s summer getaway, a place that inspired his famous work ‘Camellia’. There is a house named ‘Surel Kothi’ where he celebrated his birthday in 1940. It was on this birthday that he composed the poem ‘Jonmodine’, the verses of which were inspired by the breathtaking aura of the Himalayan village.

Tagore then also recited this poem over the telephone from Kalimpong and All India Radio Calcutta did an all- India live broadcast of the same. The house has now been turned into a museum, Rabindra Bhavan. Tagore’s belongings such as handwritten documents and rare artwork, as well as furniture designed by him and made by his son Rathindranath Tagore, are on display. An example is a beautifully crafted mahogany writing desk and chair, specially designed to support his back. The set is strategically placed in front of an airy window overlooking the lush hills, a view which the poet deeply cherished.

But historically, the Mongpu village is also known for its cinchona plantation from which quinine is made. There are other unique attractions in the area, such as the monastery, Dinchen Sherap Chhoeling Gumba. Located at the heart of the village in Nalidara Square, the monastery is also

 
The village may not be on the bucket list of usual tourists but is definitely worth exploring for those looking for a peaceful getaway, as well as engaging in a quiet retrospection. Recently, the West Bengal Government is also taking interest in promoting Tagore’s village as a tourist destination with better roads and more accommodation. The village has home stays too and is accessible by road from Darjeeling, Gangtok, by train New Jalpaiguri and flight from Bagdogra Airport within one hour journey. known as the ‘Peace Pagoda’ and can be accessed via a set of stairs through the main bazaar. A day- trip to see the dark waters of the Kalijhora waterfall merge with the Teesta River should also be on any traveller’s itinerary besides the orchid parks.

The village may not be on the bucket list of usual tourists but is definitely worth exploring for those looking for a peaceful getaway, as well as engaging in a quiet retrospection. Recently, the West Bengal Government is also taking interest in promoting Tagore’s village as a tourist destination with better roads and more accommodation. The village has home stays too and is accessible by road from Darjeeling, Gangtok, by train New Jalpaiguri and flight from Bagdogra Airport within one hour journey. The historic village is an all-season tourist spot with moderate temperature all through the year.

Source: Himalayan News Chronicle